Sunday, 7 February 2010
Accidents, Khmer, Photo-shoot and broken toe! 080210
Sorry for not updating for a while, I have been in Phnom Penh for just over 3 weeks and very busy!
I initially went down with Jeltje during her medevac as a result of a nasty motorbike accident. She is currently in Bangkok getting surgery on her hand and it was a very tense 6 hours in the taxi down to Phnom Penh! Jeltje also had a pretty serious concussion (she was wearing a helmet though) and as a result can’t remember anything about the day of the accident from having breakfast in the morning to the hospital in Phnom Penh. For this I am quite grateful as the treatment she received at the hospital here in Mondulkiri was a little on the traumatic side...
I stayed in Phnom Penh as the following week I was starting my second round of language training and it seemed silly to back and forth within a week!
The language training this time around was super intense but I am starting to feel a little more confident with my capacity to speak Khmer and having more success in being understood now that my vocabulary is improving! So we had a couple of weeks as a group in Phnom Penh, which gave us a chance to really explore the city and enjoy having the luxuries of chocolate and cocktails!
Also included in this was Jen’s birthday party, where we all went to a photo-studio and had some brilliant photographs taken of us in proper Khmer fashion. This involves having a thick layer of make-up applied, hair made into a beehive and put into a super tacky evening dress. You then have to pose with an array of props ranging from flowers and leaves to mirrors and chairs in a very cheesey poses! It was really funny and I can’t wait to see the final products when we receive them (super air-brushed of course). In the mean time I have included some of the pictures we took on the day ourselves. There aren’t any of the group shots, obviously, but they were by far the best pictures (once we stopped laughing!).
So I have had a week back in Mondulkiri before my parents arrive on 10th which I can’t wait for! I have moved into my new place, which is a vast improvement on the rat infested house I was living in. I have also made an action plan for the next two months which my line manager has approved which means I can really get going. However, I won’t be going anywhere myself in the next couple of days though, as I broke a toe on my left foot yesterday on a piece of metal sticking out of some concrete on the main road. It hurts. Alot. I have been told there is nothing I can do buy strap it and take painkillers, however, sitting on the bike (even pillion) is agony and I will only be doing short, necessary trips.
I will update again after Mum and Brian leave with some pictures of our trip. We are staying in Phnom Penh for a few days then heading down to the beautiful coastal towns of Kep and Kampot. Can’t wait!
C x
I initially went down with Jeltje during her medevac as a result of a nasty motorbike accident. She is currently in Bangkok getting surgery on her hand and it was a very tense 6 hours in the taxi down to Phnom Penh! Jeltje also had a pretty serious concussion (she was wearing a helmet though) and as a result can’t remember anything about the day of the accident from having breakfast in the morning to the hospital in Phnom Penh. For this I am quite grateful as the treatment she received at the hospital here in Mondulkiri was a little on the traumatic side...
I stayed in Phnom Penh as the following week I was starting my second round of language training and it seemed silly to back and forth within a week!
The language training this time around was super intense but I am starting to feel a little more confident with my capacity to speak Khmer and having more success in being understood now that my vocabulary is improving! So we had a couple of weeks as a group in Phnom Penh, which gave us a chance to really explore the city and enjoy having the luxuries of chocolate and cocktails!
Also included in this was Jen’s birthday party, where we all went to a photo-studio and had some brilliant photographs taken of us in proper Khmer fashion. This involves having a thick layer of make-up applied, hair made into a beehive and put into a super tacky evening dress. You then have to pose with an array of props ranging from flowers and leaves to mirrors and chairs in a very cheesey poses! It was really funny and I can’t wait to see the final products when we receive them (super air-brushed of course). In the mean time I have included some of the pictures we took on the day ourselves. There aren’t any of the group shots, obviously, but they were by far the best pictures (once we stopped laughing!).
So I have had a week back in Mondulkiri before my parents arrive on 10th which I can’t wait for! I have moved into my new place, which is a vast improvement on the rat infested house I was living in. I have also made an action plan for the next two months which my line manager has approved which means I can really get going. However, I won’t be going anywhere myself in the next couple of days though, as I broke a toe on my left foot yesterday on a piece of metal sticking out of some concrete on the main road. It hurts. Alot. I have been told there is nothing I can do buy strap it and take painkillers, however, sitting on the bike (even pillion) is agony and I will only be doing short, necessary trips.
I will update again after Mum and Brian leave with some pictures of our trip. We are staying in Phnom Penh for a few days then heading down to the beautiful coastal towns of Kep and Kampot. Can’t wait!
C x
Saturday, 9 January 2010
Christmas and New Year 2009! 080110
So this was my first Christmas a) away from my family b) in a foreign country and c) WARM! Now I know everyone at home was suffering with snow and freezing temperatures but on Christmas Day I awoke to a balmy 25c, climbing to about 30c, sorry!
Also, thanks to my amazing family and friends I had a lovely pile of presents to open, including a stocking, which were full of fabulous gifts. Everything was very much appreciated and it was great to have presents to open on Christmas morning, as well as receiving many very useful things (wooly bed socks for one!).
I had Christmas lunch with Gabby, Ros, Josh, Jeltje, Jan and Keith and we had a veritable feast in comparison to what we are used to! I seriously don’t think I’ve seen or eaten so much yummy food in over 4 months! The turkey was great and I am glad I haven’t had to go a year without it yet. So after a fab lunch we all wandered home to skype with family, nap and in Jeltje and I’s case to watch ‘Love Actually’ and have a Christmas cry! I haven’t seen that film in several years and had forgotten how sweetly cheesy it is!
So on Boxing Day Jeltje and I tried to head off to the coast but we couldn’t get in a taxi so had to wait until 27th to begin our epic holiday. By 28th Jeltje and I were on a bus to Kep, an old French town on the coast which is very beautiful and picturesque, with jungle covered hills sweeping down to golden beaches. Sadly, the beaches are mostly used by Khmer people who picnic there a lot and don’t clear away their rubbish. In fact, one section of the beach is actually a rubbish dump, which is such a shame as it could be as amazing as Sihanoukville.Still, the little place we stayed at was lovely as we had our own little bungalow, complete with hammock and thatched bamboo roof! After we arrived and settled in a bit we took a tuk-tuk to nearby Kampot to meet up with fellow VSO’s there and have a look at the town. So we had a great afternoon catching up with Kirsty and Sarah (who arrived in Cambodia with us) then headed to the river front to dailaing (a bit like promenading or something really) which naturally ended up with cocktails! We had a lovely meal at a place called Rusty Key Hole (owned by an English/Khmer couple with a very cute baby!) whilst watching the sun go down and mulling over life in Cambodia with lots of VSOs.
The following day we headed out to Rabbit Island, about 30mins boat ride from Kep, which is a beautiful tropical paradise! We spent the day swimming, sunbathing, walking and eating great food right on the beach! I also started chatting to one of the owners of a beach shack there who was really nice and very supportive of VSO!So after our hectic (ahem) day we headed back to the mainland and had dinner and an early night in preparation for our 6am leave to Sihanoukville.
The drive along the coast was beautiful and after a couple of hours we arrived at our (first) guesthouse in Sihanoukville. It was right on the beach which was where we spent the majority of our days!The coast is stunning and the beaches are all like something out of paradise! There is also a really good night life and some nice restaurants so all in all we had a brilliant time. Still think I am recovering from all the food, wine, dancing and lack of sleep though!
However, seeing in 2010 on a tropical beach with about 5,000 people while watching the entire sky being lit up with fireworks is something I will never forget.
After our amazing trip Jeltje and I have headed back to reality (work!) for 2 weeks before going back to Phnom Penh for a further 2 weeks of language training. I really can’t wait as I think that it will be a great chance to further my language. Then it is only 1 week until my parents arrive for a 10 days visit!
Anyway, back to my school visits. I am having varying rates of success, with sometimes having twenty community members turning up and sometimes zero! Still, I am really hoping that between now and March we can run our first Community Open Day, get the well project going and start setting up more effective school support committees.
So, happy 2010 everyone and here is to a highly productive year!
C x
Also, thanks to my amazing family and friends I had a lovely pile of presents to open, including a stocking, which were full of fabulous gifts. Everything was very much appreciated and it was great to have presents to open on Christmas morning, as well as receiving many very useful things (wooly bed socks for one!).
I had Christmas lunch with Gabby, Ros, Josh, Jeltje, Jan and Keith and we had a veritable feast in comparison to what we are used to! I seriously don’t think I’ve seen or eaten so much yummy food in over 4 months! The turkey was great and I am glad I haven’t had to go a year without it yet. So after a fab lunch we all wandered home to skype with family, nap and in Jeltje and I’s case to watch ‘Love Actually’ and have a Christmas cry! I haven’t seen that film in several years and had forgotten how sweetly cheesy it is!
So on Boxing Day Jeltje and I tried to head off to the coast but we couldn’t get in a taxi so had to wait until 27th to begin our epic holiday. By 28th Jeltje and I were on a bus to Kep, an old French town on the coast which is very beautiful and picturesque, with jungle covered hills sweeping down to golden beaches. Sadly, the beaches are mostly used by Khmer people who picnic there a lot and don’t clear away their rubbish. In fact, one section of the beach is actually a rubbish dump, which is such a shame as it could be as amazing as Sihanoukville.Still, the little place we stayed at was lovely as we had our own little bungalow, complete with hammock and thatched bamboo roof! After we arrived and settled in a bit we took a tuk-tuk to nearby Kampot to meet up with fellow VSO’s there and have a look at the town. So we had a great afternoon catching up with Kirsty and Sarah (who arrived in Cambodia with us) then headed to the river front to dailaing (a bit like promenading or something really) which naturally ended up with cocktails! We had a lovely meal at a place called Rusty Key Hole (owned by an English/Khmer couple with a very cute baby!) whilst watching the sun go down and mulling over life in Cambodia with lots of VSOs.
The following day we headed out to Rabbit Island, about 30mins boat ride from Kep, which is a beautiful tropical paradise! We spent the day swimming, sunbathing, walking and eating great food right on the beach! I also started chatting to one of the owners of a beach shack there who was really nice and very supportive of VSO!So after our hectic (ahem) day we headed back to the mainland and had dinner and an early night in preparation for our 6am leave to Sihanoukville.
The drive along the coast was beautiful and after a couple of hours we arrived at our (first) guesthouse in Sihanoukville. It was right on the beach which was where we spent the majority of our days!The coast is stunning and the beaches are all like something out of paradise! There is also a really good night life and some nice restaurants so all in all we had a brilliant time. Still think I am recovering from all the food, wine, dancing and lack of sleep though!
However, seeing in 2010 on a tropical beach with about 5,000 people while watching the entire sky being lit up with fireworks is something I will never forget.
After our amazing trip Jeltje and I have headed back to reality (work!) for 2 weeks before going back to Phnom Penh for a further 2 weeks of language training. I really can’t wait as I think that it will be a great chance to further my language. Then it is only 1 week until my parents arrive for a 10 days visit!
Anyway, back to my school visits. I am having varying rates of success, with sometimes having twenty community members turning up and sometimes zero! Still, I am really hoping that between now and March we can run our first Community Open Day, get the well project going and start setting up more effective school support committees.
So, happy 2010 everyone and here is to a highly productive year!
C x
Thursday, 17 December 2009
Success at Last! 16/12/2009
So far this week has been a series of up’s and down’s with work, starting badly and now going great! On Monday I had planned to have a meeting with the School Director of Pu Long School to discuss involving the community in creating a new school map for this year. However, when we turned up we were informed that he had in fact gone to a workshop in SM. Not great. Communication is limited at best here and in his defence he was probably informed of said workshop that morning. It would’ve been nice of him to give us a call though and save us the journey. Still, Jeltje was able to do a lesson observation with the grade one teacher whilst I headed back to SM with Sean (a volunteer with another project locally who offered to help us out for a couple of days doing whatever he could).
My Tuesday meeting at Pu Trom Cha was looking to go the same way when we arrived after a 45min gruelling off-road drive (including one painful spill on the way there and one VERY painful and scary one on the way back. And here was me thinking I might be bruise free in time for the beach!). The School Director was there but the community were not. He did dispatch several girls from the school to go inform the village chief that I was here and would like a meeting though, which is progress. The door which we had asked him to fix 8 weeks ago (in order to make the school secure, so we could give it some resources) was still leaning up against the outside wall. So we asked him if it would be possible for us to try and fix it now while we waited. The SD ummmed and ahhhhed for a while and eventually hopped on his bike to go get some tools from his home. He arrived back and immediately he, the teacher, Chak and Sean were all systems go creating new hinges and repairing the old ones. The door was back on again and working in about 10mins with all them sweating like mad in the sun! Still, the door was now fixed and several village elders hod now turned up so I went ahead with my community meeting whilst Sean and Jeltje re-painted the blackboards which were completely knackered.
The meeting was a great success with the SD having listed his issues and ideas for school improvements and the community giving their opinions about the school too. The one thing that was really highlighted was the amazing level of poverty in the community which was certainly reflected in the school. The children there are hardly dressed, have no paper, books or pens as their parents simply cannot afford these things. The school is very run down with hardly any resources, the class room walls are pretty much bare and there is nothing to fill them with. The school is also lacking a water supply which means there is nowhere for the children to wash, go to the toilet or drink. It is by far the worst school I have visited so far and it really pulls at the heart strings when you think about how little is actually needed to get it on the right track. It costs $200 to build a well, around $50 to provide it with resources such as paper, pens, card, chalk etc.
Still, although I have no funding to give them I am determined to help somehow to improve the school. It is the first one I’ve been to where the community has turned up so I am really keen to encourage continued partnership between school and community. During the meeting I suggested a ‘Community Open Day’ where everyone is invited to the school to see what happens there and also to see how it needs some support to make improvements. The community and SD were all really keen on this idea and have really flown with it. I have asked them to come up with some ideas and expectations for the day for our next meeting so we can set a suitable date and a list of activities.
So that was great, a very uplifting experience after weeks of feeling like I’m banging my head against a wall, not getting anywhere and being sick in Phnom Penh!
I have a meeting with Lauka School and the community there tomorrow morning which I really hope goes just as well!!
Just a quick update...I now have a kitten called Coco! She is very cute but still a little too small to catch mice and rats (sadly, as I am completely overridden with the buggers!).
Merry Christmas! I had almost forgotten...I do not feel even remotely Christmassy here as I am warm, it is sunny and everyone here is Buddhist!
Love xx
My Tuesday meeting at Pu Trom Cha was looking to go the same way when we arrived after a 45min gruelling off-road drive (including one painful spill on the way there and one VERY painful and scary one on the way back. And here was me thinking I might be bruise free in time for the beach!). The School Director was there but the community were not. He did dispatch several girls from the school to go inform the village chief that I was here and would like a meeting though, which is progress. The door which we had asked him to fix 8 weeks ago (in order to make the school secure, so we could give it some resources) was still leaning up against the outside wall. So we asked him if it would be possible for us to try and fix it now while we waited. The SD ummmed and ahhhhed for a while and eventually hopped on his bike to go get some tools from his home. He arrived back and immediately he, the teacher, Chak and Sean were all systems go creating new hinges and repairing the old ones. The door was back on again and working in about 10mins with all them sweating like mad in the sun! Still, the door was now fixed and several village elders hod now turned up so I went ahead with my community meeting whilst Sean and Jeltje re-painted the blackboards which were completely knackered.
The meeting was a great success with the SD having listed his issues and ideas for school improvements and the community giving their opinions about the school too. The one thing that was really highlighted was the amazing level of poverty in the community which was certainly reflected in the school. The children there are hardly dressed, have no paper, books or pens as their parents simply cannot afford these things. The school is very run down with hardly any resources, the class room walls are pretty much bare and there is nothing to fill them with. The school is also lacking a water supply which means there is nowhere for the children to wash, go to the toilet or drink. It is by far the worst school I have visited so far and it really pulls at the heart strings when you think about how little is actually needed to get it on the right track. It costs $200 to build a well, around $50 to provide it with resources such as paper, pens, card, chalk etc.
Still, although I have no funding to give them I am determined to help somehow to improve the school. It is the first one I’ve been to where the community has turned up so I am really keen to encourage continued partnership between school and community. During the meeting I suggested a ‘Community Open Day’ where everyone is invited to the school to see what happens there and also to see how it needs some support to make improvements. The community and SD were all really keen on this idea and have really flown with it. I have asked them to come up with some ideas and expectations for the day for our next meeting so we can set a suitable date and a list of activities.
So that was great, a very uplifting experience after weeks of feeling like I’m banging my head against a wall, not getting anywhere and being sick in Phnom Penh!
I have a meeting with Lauka School and the community there tomorrow morning which I really hope goes just as well!!
Just a quick update...I now have a kitten called Coco! She is very cute but still a little too small to catch mice and rats (sadly, as I am completely overridden with the buggers!).
Merry Christmas! I had almost forgotten...I do not feel even remotely Christmassy here as I am warm, it is sunny and everyone here is Buddhist!
Love xx
Sunday, 13 December 2009
Ratanakiri, Bum breakage and Saturday swim with Elephants! 13/12/09
So this week I spent Sun 6th-Thurs 10th Dec in the province of Ratanakiri, attending a workshop on the issue of education of indigenous children.
This is a problem in several provinces around Cambodia, as in order to reach the UN Millennium Goals by the 2015 deadline, all children must be in education. However, there is a serious issue with indigenous peoples as they all speak their own languages but the teachers speak in K’mai, making it impossible for the children to follow. It is therefore necessary to train bi-lingual teachers who can also teach the children K’mai so that they can stay in education.
There are also issues surrounding teacher retention. The teachers are paid very badly, if at all, so there is a high rate of teacher absence as they usually have to work second jobs. Also, teachers are sent to these remote communities straight from teacher training college and frequently don’t settle as a result of a drastic change in lifestyle.
So, these are some of the issues we discussed during the two day workshop, with representatives from the government, UNESCO, UNICEF and CARE, who are all key NGO’s working in the region in education.
It was an interesting few days and we created some good recommendations for the government on how to increase school attendance amongst indigenous children, namely, recruiting good teachers from the community who are then given bi-lingual education training. Also it is vital that the government pay their teachers sufficiently and on time. However, this has been said many, many times before by lots of NGO’s and nothing is being done. The army on the other hand have been given a large pay rise...watch out Thailand!
Anyway, I’ll tell you a little bit about Ban Lung (capitol of RTK). Well, it is much larger than Sen Monorom, with proper shops and a massive market. It is also much flatter, now that I am used to be surrounded by hills it feels weird! It also has a beautiful volcanic crater lake not far from the town which is simply breathtaking. We went swimming the warm green water and it was just ACE! There is lots of mythology and religion surrounding the lake and it is a sacred place for the local communities who care for it. Sadly, Kirsty (the vso I was staying with), said that there are plans for the government to sell it to the Vietnamese who are going to build a casino right on the shore of the lake. I can’t think of anything worse than this happening and I really hope they come to their senses.
My journey back from RTK (and the bum breakage mentioned in the title) was certainly a little interesting. I managed to arrange to get a lift with the UNESCO people down to Snoul, which is an easy place to get a ride to Sen Monorom. However, the driver got confused and took me to Kratie instead, which meant I needed to get a ride to Snoul from there and then another up to SM. Anyway, to cut a long story short, after much bartering with drivers I managed to get the front seat of a pick up (with 5 people in the back seat, designed for 3 and someone sat with the driver!) to Snoul and the same driver then arranged for me to get in another pick up to SM. This pick-up was the most laden down vehicle I have ever seen! It had about 3 tons of stock on the back, about six people on top and 6 people in the cabin. It went ridiculously slowly as a result and the 2 hour journey took almost 4! Another day in Cambodia!
Anyway, after our stressful week, Jeltje and I decided that we needed to relax so yesterday we headed on over the Pu Long waterfall, about 30mins moto ride through the hills on dirt roads. You would not believe the dust now that the dry season is here. It hasn’t rained in about 5 weeks and the roads and just pure red dust, meaning that whenever you go out you inevitably get a ‘mondulkiri tan’. So, jumping into the cold water after the trek down to the waterfall was an amazing feeling, as was washing off the orange coating! We had a lovely time, swimming, pick-nicking, sun bathing and reading on the rocks at the fall. Then something really cool happened, an elephant trek arrived so they could take a bath in the waterfall. It was great seeing the elephants in such close proximity and watching them in the water. However, I felt a bit saddened by the way they were draped in chains and have decided that I don’t want to ride one. We are going to our friend Jack’s elephant project on Tuesday (after visiting a school to meet the community members!) and he doesn’t do rides but does do treks to see them in their natural habitat which I think will be better than going on a touristy ride.
I have put a couple of elephant pictures up but I need to get the photo’s from Kirsty of RTK as I had to leave my other camera in PP to be fixed, sadly.
I will update again soon with pictures from the elephant project and more news about how my work is going here.
C x
This is a problem in several provinces around Cambodia, as in order to reach the UN Millennium Goals by the 2015 deadline, all children must be in education. However, there is a serious issue with indigenous peoples as they all speak their own languages but the teachers speak in K’mai, making it impossible for the children to follow. It is therefore necessary to train bi-lingual teachers who can also teach the children K’mai so that they can stay in education.
There are also issues surrounding teacher retention. The teachers are paid very badly, if at all, so there is a high rate of teacher absence as they usually have to work second jobs. Also, teachers are sent to these remote communities straight from teacher training college and frequently don’t settle as a result of a drastic change in lifestyle.
So, these are some of the issues we discussed during the two day workshop, with representatives from the government, UNESCO, UNICEF and CARE, who are all key NGO’s working in the region in education.
It was an interesting few days and we created some good recommendations for the government on how to increase school attendance amongst indigenous children, namely, recruiting good teachers from the community who are then given bi-lingual education training. Also it is vital that the government pay their teachers sufficiently and on time. However, this has been said many, many times before by lots of NGO’s and nothing is being done. The army on the other hand have been given a large pay rise...watch out Thailand!
Anyway, I’ll tell you a little bit about Ban Lung (capitol of RTK). Well, it is much larger than Sen Monorom, with proper shops and a massive market. It is also much flatter, now that I am used to be surrounded by hills it feels weird! It also has a beautiful volcanic crater lake not far from the town which is simply breathtaking. We went swimming the warm green water and it was just ACE! There is lots of mythology and religion surrounding the lake and it is a sacred place for the local communities who care for it. Sadly, Kirsty (the vso I was staying with), said that there are plans for the government to sell it to the Vietnamese who are going to build a casino right on the shore of the lake. I can’t think of anything worse than this happening and I really hope they come to their senses.
My journey back from RTK (and the bum breakage mentioned in the title) was certainly a little interesting. I managed to arrange to get a lift with the UNESCO people down to Snoul, which is an easy place to get a ride to Sen Monorom. However, the driver got confused and took me to Kratie instead, which meant I needed to get a ride to Snoul from there and then another up to SM. Anyway, to cut a long story short, after much bartering with drivers I managed to get the front seat of a pick up (with 5 people in the back seat, designed for 3 and someone sat with the driver!) to Snoul and the same driver then arranged for me to get in another pick up to SM. This pick-up was the most laden down vehicle I have ever seen! It had about 3 tons of stock on the back, about six people on top and 6 people in the cabin. It went ridiculously slowly as a result and the 2 hour journey took almost 4! Another day in Cambodia!
Anyway, after our stressful week, Jeltje and I decided that we needed to relax so yesterday we headed on over the Pu Long waterfall, about 30mins moto ride through the hills on dirt roads. You would not believe the dust now that the dry season is here. It hasn’t rained in about 5 weeks and the roads and just pure red dust, meaning that whenever you go out you inevitably get a ‘mondulkiri tan’. So, jumping into the cold water after the trek down to the waterfall was an amazing feeling, as was washing off the orange coating! We had a lovely time, swimming, pick-nicking, sun bathing and reading on the rocks at the fall. Then something really cool happened, an elephant trek arrived so they could take a bath in the waterfall. It was great seeing the elephants in such close proximity and watching them in the water. However, I felt a bit saddened by the way they were draped in chains and have decided that I don’t want to ride one. We are going to our friend Jack’s elephant project on Tuesday (after visiting a school to meet the community members!) and he doesn’t do rides but does do treks to see them in their natural habitat which I think will be better than going on a touristy ride.
I have put a couple of elephant pictures up but I need to get the photo’s from Kirsty of RTK as I had to leave my other camera in PP to be fixed, sadly.
I will update again soon with pictures from the elephant project and more news about how my work is going here.
C x
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