Sorry I haven’t updated my blog for quite a while now I have been really busy as you shall see in the following blog...!
Right, so where to start?!
On 23rd October we all headed back to Phnom Penh from Kampong Cham with all of our things ready for the last part of our ICT (In Country Training) and to do a last bit of shopping before heading off to our placements. This was really quite hectic and exhausting but we ate lots of great food (HAS to be done in PP!) before heading off to different parts on Cambodia on the Sunday.
So the plan was that Jeltje and I were going to get a truck to take us and our stuff up to MDK however the truck driver decided that he didn’t want to come into the city as he was worried about police fines or something. Anyway, he sent this big tuk tuk to get us and all our things to take us out of town where our stuff would be loaded onto the truck. VSO had arranged to hire us the entire truck, which meant no other passengers of things however when we arrived the truck already had stuff on it but never mind, this is Cambodia and really not much we could do about it. So we managed to leave about 8:30am and made amazing time until our driver decided to help tow a mini bus out of a flood. Then proceed to wait there just watching and chatting on his mobile phone for THREE HOURS. Jeltje and I asked him several times when we were leaving to which he said ‘two minutes’ after about an hour we told him we wanted to leave NOW and he just ignored us completely. At the two hour mark we rang our translator who spoke to the driver who said he was waiting for his father or something...anyway after three hours a van did turn up and a man got into our truck. No-one else was supposed to be in the truck but we were so grateful to be leaving by this point that we just went along with it. By now, after a lovely sunny afternoon, a massive storm was rolling in. Obviously this didn’t exactly improve the state of the roads. At 5pm he stopped again to eat which seriously pissed us off as he had stopped so much and could’ve eaten in the three hours we had to sit by the edge of the road in the sun!! Grrr. Anyway, by the time we left again it was 5:30 pm and it was practically dark which is obviously when you want to be travelling on the most deserted, dangerous and remote roads in Cambodia...!
The long and short of this section of the journey was that Jeltje and I were scared witless, sliding sideways down roads towards ditches and landslides. It was really way beyond being even remotely fun. Especially as we kept having to stop to tow others out. Anyway, I’m trying not to think about it!! So eventually we made it 14 hours later! Over double what it should take, even at the moment. Turns out the driver wanted to wait for his brother so he could give him a free lift. Needless to say he will not be used again. As we arrived so late on Sunday I spent the night in a hotel and moved into my house on the Monday morning.
My VA (volunteer assistant, that is my assistant, he’s not a volunteer)Tak has been completely amazing completely sorting my house out and everything is great. Now I have unpacked and moved all my things in it is really starting to feel like my home.
After doing a bit of unpacking on Monday morning we headed out of town for our first school visit. Larka school is set in a beautiful position at the top of one of the many hills in MDK. There are two classrooms in the school and it is dire need of a spruce up and a playground for the children. So lots of work for me to do there and I’ve got loads of ideas to share with the community. The main teacher there called Lavi is great, really keen to develop the school and it has come a long way in the short time that VSO have been working there.
So after the school visit we headed up to the Pegoda on the top of the biggest hill in SM where there are amazing views all around the area. We have had amazing weather since we arrived with temps about 25 during the day and clear blue sky’s which means we can do lots and certainly better than the typhoon we had last time...!
So back on the motorbikes and into town for some dinner at Meg’s place and an early night!
Yesterday we had another very productive day visiting a school in another amazing location. On the way I just couldn’t believe that this is now my office! Amazing. I have taken lots of pictures so have a look on facebook as I can’t put them all on here, sorry! The teachers here are also amazing and the school director very keen to have some help. However, his daughter is very sick so he is frequently absent from the school. The students there are also almost entirely Pulong and speak very little Khmer which makes it very hard for the teachers. This is not helped by almost no community involvement in the school. In fact many of the local people have no idea what happens in a school as they never went themselves...I feel a community open day coming on...!
On the way back we had a break on a hillside overlooking the most amazing and unspoilt country I have ever seen. Then as we were chatting I gasped very loudly which gave Meg quite a start and her immediate reaction was ‘what’s on me’?! However, I had just seen an elephant approaching! The Pulong people still use them as transport and it was carrying a range of goods and people. Very cool. My first elephant!
We had a lovely lunch at the Nature Lodge, which is down a very scary track which meant some serious bum hurtage! We also went into a bush at one point which really hurt! That is saying nothing about Tak’s driving, he’s been on a bike since the day he was born, but rather the awful state of the roads here. Nature Lodge is very swiss family Robinson with huts built into the trees and little wooden lodges for people to stay in. The food is great there too but a little pricey now that I am used to eating for less than $2 a meal!
Last night it was my turn to cook dinner for everyone so I thought ‘when in Rome’ and made curry. The only problem is that i’m not entirely sure how to make a Cambodian curry, neither is Tak. So it was generally a fun shopping in the market/cooking experiment! I let Tak cook the rice as he says barang don’t know how to do it properly and to be honest I kind of agree with him...! Anyway, it tasted great (my own curry paste too, made in my new massive stone motar and pestle!) and everyone left very happy!
So today we headed off to Pulong school which is down another bumpy muddy track so much bum/back cracking there too! However, it was well worth it as the school is amazing. It has a great playground and the school director is very involved with the community. Saying that, they still need some help and support with some aspects so I really think I can help them take their work forward.
After the school visit we went to a waterfall to go swimming. WOW. I cannot believe I live somewhere where I can go swimming in a tropical waterfall after work! It goes without saying that the waterfall was beautiful and it was great to swim in the really cool water after the trek through the jungle to get there.
So, then back to base for lunch and an afternoon meeting with the District Director of Education in MDK who is great and very supportive of VSO. We have arranged to go on a visit to the schools together so we can discuss what to work on with each school.
Anyway, at the end of my 3rd day of living here I am completely loving it. I really think there is alot of work I can do here and I can’t wait to start. I also really like my house and the fact that it is so much cooler here. At night I sleep under a quilt and actually considered wearing a jumper in bed too last night...! However, it is back to the sauna of PP tomorrow. Hopefully won’t take 14 hours this time! Tak has arranged a truck and one of his friend’s is driving so at least there won’t be a 3 hour pointless stop and it hasn’t rained for 3 days so the road will be good which will be the first time for me!
I am going to have to wrap this up now as I need to get ready for Meg’s leaving party this evening. I will really try and update early next week when I get back from water festival (I’m rowing, shopping, dancing and drinking!). I also believe that it is quite traditional...you can even watch it on-line. We will be the boat about 3 races behind!!
Love J xx
Wednesday 28 October 2009
Saturday 10 October 2009
Nausea and vomiting...are symptoms of everything! 09/10/09
So today I’ve been hit really hard by a vomiting bug. Was up at about 5am feeling seriously dodge and had some really bad stomach pain but managed to get back to sleep. However, by morning it was starting to become clear that something was really wrong ...
Anyway, to cut a long (boring) story short I have been vomiting all day with serious stomach pains and nausea. Can’t even keep water down so am attempting some re-hydration salts but the thought is making the nausea even worse (if possible). Still, it was bound to happen at some point and at least I have my own toilet.
So I’ll see if it gets any better tonight and if not by tomorrow then I think I may have to see a doctor as these are symptoms of a whole range of cheerful illnesses.
I shall now share some more cheerful stuff as I haven’t updated in a little while. Whilst back in Phnom Penh we had the opportunity to do some shopping which was lovely. I got some furniture for my house and cushions and things like that. Still need to do the practical shopping though, for things like cooking utensils and blankets! I really want one of these quilts I’ve seen which are made by local communities and sold in PP. I saw the shop whilst out on one of my epic bike rides around PP and now can’t remember where it was, so that’ll be another epic bike ride!
Jean has also promised to show me how to make yoghurt which will be ace. Dairy is not that big here and in MDK impossible to buy. Apparently all I need is live yoghurt and a thermos flask! It is very exciting!
Ok going to have to go now, typing is actually really sapping me of what little energy I have left. Urgh. Re-hydration salts.
Ta ta xx
Anyway, to cut a long (boring) story short I have been vomiting all day with serious stomach pains and nausea. Can’t even keep water down so am attempting some re-hydration salts but the thought is making the nausea even worse (if possible). Still, it was bound to happen at some point and at least I have my own toilet.
So I’ll see if it gets any better tonight and if not by tomorrow then I think I may have to see a doctor as these are symptoms of a whole range of cheerful illnesses.
I shall now share some more cheerful stuff as I haven’t updated in a little while. Whilst back in Phnom Penh we had the opportunity to do some shopping which was lovely. I got some furniture for my house and cushions and things like that. Still need to do the practical shopping though, for things like cooking utensils and blankets! I really want one of these quilts I’ve seen which are made by local communities and sold in PP. I saw the shop whilst out on one of my epic bike rides around PP and now can’t remember where it was, so that’ll be another epic bike ride!
Jean has also promised to show me how to make yoghurt which will be ace. Dairy is not that big here and in MDK impossible to buy. Apparently all I need is live yoghurt and a thermos flask! It is very exciting!
Ok going to have to go now, typing is actually really sapping me of what little energy I have left. Urgh. Re-hydration salts.
Ta ta xx
Saturday 3 October 2009
Pictures
CRAZY ROADS!!
Tail back as a hi-lux's wheels got glued by mud! To put it in context, this is where there was a 6ft pass between two sheer land-slides...talk about 'sense of adventure needed'!
View from my balcony/veranda (incl. hanging basket!)
Sen Monorom Falls
MY HOUSE :) Traditional Khmer style, on stilts. It has 3 bedrooms and 2 balconies. Also, it is surrounded by lots of fruit trees which I'm welcome to pick!!
My First Cyclone (or typhoon, I’m not sure which it is called in SE Asia!)... 30/09/09
So yesterday we woke up to very substantial winds and even more rain (if that is possible) then started to hear stories from other people in the town that the Cyclone, which has caused havoc and many deaths in the Philippines, was heading our way. It seemed as though it was going to hit Vietnam about 200km north of us and move up through Laos, so we were only ever going to get the tails. However, I have now decided that this is more than enough to ever get of a Cyclone!
In the afternoon we went on the bikes (eek) down to Meg’s house and had the handover meeting, having to bellow over the howling wind and rain. Was almost amusing apart from the fact that a) soaking wet b) freezing cold c) in a Cyclone!!
We then decided that we should maybe inform VSO about said storm heading towards us, just in case. Also, all the locals had never seen anything like it (this is the worst weather here for about 70 years!) so not really sure what to do. VSO then got on to the Embassy and the advice came back that we were to get ourselves into low concrete accommodation. Problem was, by this point it was getting very dodge to leave Jan and Keith’s (and they had made an amazing dinner for us all, including two different kinds of cake!) so we decided to stay there and wait it out. Their house is wood but not on stilts, as it has been built to the landlord can live under it. Also, by this point the electricity had come back on so we could watch CNN (we were on it quite a lot actually!) and play video games.
I notice how Cambodians can fix the electricity in about 2 hours in a Cyclone but our electricity was off for nearly two days at home when a tree fell on a power line, thank you South West Electric.
So anyway, we had an amazing dinner with mashed potato, yummy casserole and veg followed by carrot cake and raisin cake WITH CUSTARD. There was also plenty of wine, which may have helped. So we had a jolly good time really whilst the storm raged around us.
At about 9:30pm the worst of it had past and we were able to get a moto lift from the boys back to our (concrete) hotel.
So all is well! Just the other 3 cyclones forming at the moment to worry about...!!
Love xx
In the afternoon we went on the bikes (eek) down to Meg’s house and had the handover meeting, having to bellow over the howling wind and rain. Was almost amusing apart from the fact that a) soaking wet b) freezing cold c) in a Cyclone!!
We then decided that we should maybe inform VSO about said storm heading towards us, just in case. Also, all the locals had never seen anything like it (this is the worst weather here for about 70 years!) so not really sure what to do. VSO then got on to the Embassy and the advice came back that we were to get ourselves into low concrete accommodation. Problem was, by this point it was getting very dodge to leave Jan and Keith’s (and they had made an amazing dinner for us all, including two different kinds of cake!) so we decided to stay there and wait it out. Their house is wood but not on stilts, as it has been built to the landlord can live under it. Also, by this point the electricity had come back on so we could watch CNN (we were on it quite a lot actually!) and play video games.
I notice how Cambodians can fix the electricity in about 2 hours in a Cyclone but our electricity was off for nearly two days at home when a tree fell on a power line, thank you South West Electric.
So anyway, we had an amazing dinner with mashed potato, yummy casserole and veg followed by carrot cake and raisin cake WITH CUSTARD. There was also plenty of wine, which may have helped. So we had a jolly good time really whilst the storm raged around us.
At about 9:30pm the worst of it had past and we were able to get a moto lift from the boys back to our (concrete) hotel.
So all is well! Just the other 3 cyclones forming at the moment to worry about...!!
Love xx
It’s like Jurassic Park...only without the dinosaurs (I hope) 28/09/09
Weather: RAIN. RAIN. RAIN. GALE FORCE WIND. RAIN. RAIN. RAIN
Khmer word of the day: Seam Reap Soor (formal greeting...accompanied by mini bow and praying type hand movement)
So Jeltje and I have moved to Sen Monorom for our placement visit which will last one week and be an introduction to our life here in Mondulkiri.
Right, I had better start with our journey up here. When I heard there was a taxi picking us up I imagined a Toyota Camry (v popular saloon car here) but actually what turned up was a Toyota Landcruiser. I was like, wow, that’ll be nice and comfy not squished in a tiny car. As VSO pay for slightly better tickets, Jeltje and I were in the back seat with another Khmer guy and it was fairly comfy although we were jammed in with our helmets. However, in order to get more people in the car they had replaced the boot with 3 seats in which were crammed 3 lovely (but squished) French guys. One of them had been volunteering in PP for 2 years and his friends were visiting him. However, why they decided to visit the most remote province in Cambodia during the rainy season out of choice I do not know!! So off we went, very comfortable in the air conditioned car (listening to RnB singer Akon at this point to be followed by many a power ballad including ‘I can’t live if living is without you’ my miming along to which was particularly inspired) chatting away to these French dudes. The road was tarmac so pretty amazing considering what was to come...Jan then text me saying ‘let us know when you hit dirt’. Mmmm. Ok.
So we ‘hit dirt’ at a town called Snoul (this means slut in Dutch which makes Jeltje embarrassed to say it and me giggle!) and headed out into the wild east of Cambodia. The road at this point was a little bumpy but ok. We then hit an amazing patch of tarmac, then dirt, then tarmac. It seems they are building the road in totally random sections rather than from start to finish...very odd! It was after about an hour of this that we started to hit some serious off-road stuff. We were slipping all over the road, in and out of huge ditches and holes of mud. We went past many abandoned cars and trucks (may I say, this was during a monsoon, of course!) and people trying to dig their way out of huge ruts. At one point we went down a particularly massive hole and the car made a very odd noise and refused to move (on the plus side, the hot French guy was now sat next to me...!). It was the most serious driving conditions I have ever experienced (I don’t want to scare you Mum but there were many, many landslides) so all in all quite an adventure. I would like to take this opportunity to reassure those who would like to visit that the road is only like this for a few months of the year, just so happens it is these few months!
Anyway, after that journey we arrived in a very misty, wet and dare I say it, COLD Sen Monorom! We were dropped off at our hotel (quite nice) and then taken to Keith and Jan’s place at the bottom of the valley by the lake to meet everyone. When we arrived we were told that another couple of ex-pats had arranged afternoon tea for us. It was amazing! Their house is gorgeous and Roz had made real life chocolate cake, which tasted like heaven! Roz and Gabriel work for an NGO here but are actually paid proper salaries so have a great house. and cake. They also have a really cute little boy who is very sweet and loves cake!
We then popped next door to have a look at Jan and Keith’s place, which is amazing too! They live above a family and have the top floor, which over-looks the lake. It has an oven too, which is pretty rare out here (also good for the making of cake).
We then went out for dinner with the other VSO volunteers and the volunteer assistants to this really nice place and had a yummy Khmer curry, then proceeded back to our hotel for an early night which of course turned into watching a dvd until 11:30pm!!
We got up at 5:45am (!!!) and headed out for breakfast (duck eggs and baguette) then up to the Provincial Office of Education to meet all of our colleagues and see the office. I’m sure I will take some pictures at some point but today it was thick fog and rain so really nothing to see. Besides, I was riding pillion for the first time on the back of a motorbike so really quite focused on that!!!
Good meeting, mostly about the importance of finding a good house here and trying to settle in properly before thinking about the work. So that was nice and the volunteer assistants are great, so friendly and warm. They’re all young guys and referred to as ‘the boys’!
We then headed off to open a bank account which took quite a while but is all sorted now so we can get paid our allowance and rent into there. It was then time for lunch break, which is 3 hours!! Rigorously enforced so no stuffing a sandwich in at your desk allowed! Jeltje and I went and chilled at the hotel for a bit and had a chat about houses and life in general then headed into town to investigate. All this proved to be was a quick way to get dirty, wet and lost, so quickly gave up and headed to a place called ‘The Greenhouse’ for lunch. We had a cheapy lunch of curry (J) and noodles (me) and were joined by a very cute kitten whom we have called ‘Two Puck’ (said Tu Pac!). There is a very long story behind this that I won’t bore you with!!
So then on to house hunting...what an experience! It really was interesting. The first house we went to was a literal mansion, consisting of 2 floors and 6 bedrooms. Waaay too expensive though although J is thinking of trying to bargain for just the top floor.
We then proceeded to see many more houses on a scale of ‘NO WAY’ to ‘maybe if...’ Then we found THE house. It was a totally random find that we just happened to drive past and see the sign. It has obviously just been re-done, is a very nice size and great views over the valley. Must be out of our price range...When the land-lady arrived 20mins later we discovered 2 bedrooms (one v big) and a lovely living area. Haven’t seen the kitchen or bathroom yet but assured that it will have a stove and sink and the b’room has a shower. Great. So on to price. The land-lady originally said $200, then $180 and after explaining that I am in fact a volunteer she is giving it to me for $150pm! It is amazing for that price so pretty chuffed. Going back in the morning to negotiate some more on furniture and to see the kitchen and bathroom but fairly positive so far!
I also found out today that to have internet in your house is $30 pm! Lots of volunteers here do it as skyping so much cheaper than international calls and very convenient. Also can get 900 cable channels for $8pm (about 30 of which are in English but includes 6 football channels apparently) so not going to be so disconnected from outside world as first thought!
Anyway, a massive tropical storm has rolled in this evening from the Philippines, where I understand it has wreaked havoc (so makes a change from the constant torrential rain by adding gale force winds!) and I am exhausted from today so going to sign off and write another blog when I can.
Love xx
Khmer word of the day: Seam Reap Soor (formal greeting...accompanied by mini bow and praying type hand movement)
So Jeltje and I have moved to Sen Monorom for our placement visit which will last one week and be an introduction to our life here in Mondulkiri.
Right, I had better start with our journey up here. When I heard there was a taxi picking us up I imagined a Toyota Camry (v popular saloon car here) but actually what turned up was a Toyota Landcruiser. I was like, wow, that’ll be nice and comfy not squished in a tiny car. As VSO pay for slightly better tickets, Jeltje and I were in the back seat with another Khmer guy and it was fairly comfy although we were jammed in with our helmets. However, in order to get more people in the car they had replaced the boot with 3 seats in which were crammed 3 lovely (but squished) French guys. One of them had been volunteering in PP for 2 years and his friends were visiting him. However, why they decided to visit the most remote province in Cambodia during the rainy season out of choice I do not know!! So off we went, very comfortable in the air conditioned car (listening to RnB singer Akon at this point to be followed by many a power ballad including ‘I can’t live if living is without you’ my miming along to which was particularly inspired) chatting away to these French dudes. The road was tarmac so pretty amazing considering what was to come...Jan then text me saying ‘let us know when you hit dirt’. Mmmm. Ok.
So we ‘hit dirt’ at a town called Snoul (this means slut in Dutch which makes Jeltje embarrassed to say it and me giggle!) and headed out into the wild east of Cambodia. The road at this point was a little bumpy but ok. We then hit an amazing patch of tarmac, then dirt, then tarmac. It seems they are building the road in totally random sections rather than from start to finish...very odd! It was after about an hour of this that we started to hit some serious off-road stuff. We were slipping all over the road, in and out of huge ditches and holes of mud. We went past many abandoned cars and trucks (may I say, this was during a monsoon, of course!) and people trying to dig their way out of huge ruts. At one point we went down a particularly massive hole and the car made a very odd noise and refused to move (on the plus side, the hot French guy was now sat next to me...!). It was the most serious driving conditions I have ever experienced (I don’t want to scare you Mum but there were many, many landslides) so all in all quite an adventure. I would like to take this opportunity to reassure those who would like to visit that the road is only like this for a few months of the year, just so happens it is these few months!
Anyway, after that journey we arrived in a very misty, wet and dare I say it, COLD Sen Monorom! We were dropped off at our hotel (quite nice) and then taken to Keith and Jan’s place at the bottom of the valley by the lake to meet everyone. When we arrived we were told that another couple of ex-pats had arranged afternoon tea for us. It was amazing! Their house is gorgeous and Roz had made real life chocolate cake, which tasted like heaven! Roz and Gabriel work for an NGO here but are actually paid proper salaries so have a great house. and cake. They also have a really cute little boy who is very sweet and loves cake!
We then popped next door to have a look at Jan and Keith’s place, which is amazing too! They live above a family and have the top floor, which over-looks the lake. It has an oven too, which is pretty rare out here (also good for the making of cake).
We then went out for dinner with the other VSO volunteers and the volunteer assistants to this really nice place and had a yummy Khmer curry, then proceeded back to our hotel for an early night which of course turned into watching a dvd until 11:30pm!!
We got up at 5:45am (!!!) and headed out for breakfast (duck eggs and baguette) then up to the Provincial Office of Education to meet all of our colleagues and see the office. I’m sure I will take some pictures at some point but today it was thick fog and rain so really nothing to see. Besides, I was riding pillion for the first time on the back of a motorbike so really quite focused on that!!!
Good meeting, mostly about the importance of finding a good house here and trying to settle in properly before thinking about the work. So that was nice and the volunteer assistants are great, so friendly and warm. They’re all young guys and referred to as ‘the boys’!
We then headed off to open a bank account which took quite a while but is all sorted now so we can get paid our allowance and rent into there. It was then time for lunch break, which is 3 hours!! Rigorously enforced so no stuffing a sandwich in at your desk allowed! Jeltje and I went and chilled at the hotel for a bit and had a chat about houses and life in general then headed into town to investigate. All this proved to be was a quick way to get dirty, wet and lost, so quickly gave up and headed to a place called ‘The Greenhouse’ for lunch. We had a cheapy lunch of curry (J) and noodles (me) and were joined by a very cute kitten whom we have called ‘Two Puck’ (said Tu Pac!). There is a very long story behind this that I won’t bore you with!!
So then on to house hunting...what an experience! It really was interesting. The first house we went to was a literal mansion, consisting of 2 floors and 6 bedrooms. Waaay too expensive though although J is thinking of trying to bargain for just the top floor.
We then proceeded to see many more houses on a scale of ‘NO WAY’ to ‘maybe if...’ Then we found THE house. It was a totally random find that we just happened to drive past and see the sign. It has obviously just been re-done, is a very nice size and great views over the valley. Must be out of our price range...When the land-lady arrived 20mins later we discovered 2 bedrooms (one v big) and a lovely living area. Haven’t seen the kitchen or bathroom yet but assured that it will have a stove and sink and the b’room has a shower. Great. So on to price. The land-lady originally said $200, then $180 and after explaining that I am in fact a volunteer she is giving it to me for $150pm! It is amazing for that price so pretty chuffed. Going back in the morning to negotiate some more on furniture and to see the kitchen and bathroom but fairly positive so far!
I also found out today that to have internet in your house is $30 pm! Lots of volunteers here do it as skyping so much cheaper than international calls and very convenient. Also can get 900 cable channels for $8pm (about 30 of which are in English but includes 6 football channels apparently) so not going to be so disconnected from outside world as first thought!
Anyway, a massive tropical storm has rolled in this evening from the Philippines, where I understand it has wreaked havoc (so makes a change from the constant torrential rain by adding gale force winds!) and I am exhausted from today so going to sign off and write another blog when I can.
Love xx
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