Tuesday 18 May 2010

The Kings Birthday

Another month, another public holiday... So this time it was for King Sihamoni’s birthday and we have had three days off in total around a weekend.

A group of us decided to head to Phnom Penh for the weekend as it is easy to get to and there was a lot going on to keep us occupied.

On Thursday night there was a free concert given by the American band Dengue Fever in the Vietnamese Friendship Park, sponsored by the US Embassy to celebrate 60 years of involvement in Cambodia (yes, I’m sure there is irony here). Dengue Fever are based in LA and formed after having several trips to Cambodia and discovering 60s and 70s Cambodian music, which I have to admit, is actually quite great! So they set about reviving it and managed to recruit an amazing Cambodian singer to the band and now enjoy worldwide success. In fact, one of the girls I was with had actually already seen them at a festival in the UK.

The one thing which was obvious at the concert was the clear cultural differences between Cambodians and us Barangs. The Cambodians didn’t move during the concert, in fact, most of them didn’t even smile. Yet here were us foreigners cheering, clapping, dancing and singing along. I do not envy any band playing to a Cambodian audience, talk about a tough crowd!
I do feel that I and the group I was with are probably famous on the Cambodian social networking site as it seemed that everyone was taking photos and videos of us. We weren’t the only ones either, once glance around and you could spot many pockets of dancing Barangs causing a stir in the otherwise mostly Cambodian crowd.

The band themselves were great, particularly the lead singer who had an amazing and original voice. I have included a video link here to youtube if you would like to check them out and if they ever come to a venue near you I would definitely recommend that you go!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQYOGkCk2DA

On Friday night we went to a modern dance performance which also included a section by Epic Arts, which is an organisation based in Kampot. They work with children with disabilities helping to support their social development and education, in a country which barely recognises disability. The four young men involved in the piece were amazing, two were in wheelchairs and the other two are deaf. Their performance was brilliant, one of the best modern dance pieces I have seen and it was easily as good as the professionals who followed them.

The main piece was by Belle Chumvan Sodhachivy who is a modern Cambodian choreographer who uses the traditional Khmer Apsara dancing in her modern dance pieces. It was very beautiful and the choreographer herself was an amazing dancer. The themes explored in the piece ranged from playfulness to quite dark group dances. Again, if she ever comes to a venue near you I would definitely recommend going.

http://khmerbird.com/entertainment/contemporary-dancer-belle-chumvan-sodhachivy.html

The weekend was very enjoyable and a definite break from the jungle. However, I was more than happy to head back to Mondulkiri as it is incredibly hot in Cambodia at the moment with high temperatures and humidity causing discomfort and sleep loss in the city! In the mountains the temperature is so much cooler, hitting 30c max during the day and dropping down to low 20c’s at night meaning it is a far nicer climate to live in. In Mondulkiri the rains have also started which make a welcome break to the intense sun.

I’m also looking forward to checking up on several projects I have been working on and am beginning to plan the holiday clubs I am planning on running during the rainy season holiday.

Wednesday 5 May 2010

The Mango Rains

Last week saw the beginning of the ‘mango rains’ which means that it doesn’t rain everyday but when it does rain, it pours (and storms). They are so named as we are nearing the end of the mango season, which I will sorely miss. It has just come into avocado season too, which has been marvellous and I have had many VSO’s begging me to bring them a supply when I come to Phnom Penh.

However, this is now day two without any rain but as Chak just reliably informed me, the next time it rains that will be it. The beginning of the rainy season. This means constant rain for days, severely limiting travel and work and general madness caused by being continuously cold/wet and the noise of the rain pummelling the tin roofs.

As you can see from my above description, I am a little apprehensive about the start of the rains. The land here at the moment is parched beyond recognition, with river beds lying empty and waterfalls dry. I cannot wait to see again, Cambodia as it was when I first arrived, a lush green country with rice paddies as far as the eye could see and roaring waterfalls. However, practically, I am not looking forward to the boredom and frustration it is likely to cause (I have been reliably told by other people in Mondulkiri). In the rest of Cambodia during the rainy season it rains for perhaps a couple of hours a day maximum. In the mountainous region of Mondulkiri I have heard that it regularly rains non-stop for a week. I just can’t even begin to imagine what this will be like (apart from wet...) and I think it will certainly be an experience.

So in preparation I have changed my motorbike tyres to mud ones and will be purchasing a high quality poncho next time I’m in Phnom Penh. I may even get some wellies!

Perhaps Cambodia isn’t too far from England then, only, here it only rains for 5 months rather than 12!